While driving this National Scenic Byway, history lovers quickly realize that the Four Corners region rivals Egypt, Peru, Mexico, China and other top archaeological destinations. Trail of the Ancients is complex and fascinating, giving insight to Ancestral Puebloans who built communities, hunted, farmed and raised families centuries before the United States was formed. Their accomplishments are even more remarkable when you study the landscape, realizing the harsh, dry conditions in which they thrived. Until they didn’t. At some point, people vanished from the area. Extreme drought was the most likely reason, and Ancestral Puebloans moved farther south. The Navajo, Hopi and other modern Native American tribes are their descendants, mostly living in northeastern Arizona and northern New Mexico. This byway starts on the Arizona/Utah border, winds through southeastern Utah and into southwestern Colorado before continuing onto the crown jewel: Chaco Canyon, which we’ll feature soon in our New Mexico section.

On Trail of the Ancients’ western end lies Monument Valley, one of the most iconic destinations in the American Southwest. Towering 400 to 1,000 feet high, sandstone formations grace the high desert. Located in the Navajo Nation, Monument Valley straddles the Arizona/Utah state line. A fee gives access to a 17-mile loop road; however, motorcycles aren’t allowed, and I wouldn’t drive an RV on it either. Instead, book a tour with a local Navajo guide. Traveling in a vehicle equipped for the rocky, sandy terrain, you’ll have an experienced driver who will take you to places not accessible on the loop. You’ll hear Navajo stories about the valley’s history, and many tours are timed to the sun for prime video and photography opportunities.

From Monument Valley heading north into Utah, US 163 crosses the San Juan River. Mexican Hat is named after a large sombrero-topped rock spire, located just past town on the right. Then, take a left onto Utah State Highway 261 and go a short way to UT 316 and the entrance to Goosenecks State Park, where a parking area dead ends at a cliff. Here lies one of Utah’s most stunning natural features, in a state loaded with them. One thousand feet below, the San Juan River snakes through a canyon it’s eroded into a series of sharp curves over the last 300 million years. Laced with symmetrical ridges, the walls and buttes look like perfectly sculped cakes. Back on UT 261 and heading north, be wary of the Moki Dugway. Built during the 1950s to haul ore, it’s literally dug into steep cliffs. At 15 mph, the Moki Dugway is three miles of sheer terror lasting about 10 minutes. Actually, the gravel road is very well-maintained and wide enough for two cars to pass. I’ve even seen RVs and cattle trucks on it. So, it’s not that scary (gulp). After ascending the 11% grade to the top of Cedar Mesa, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views.

• If you prefer to skip the Moki Dugway, go back to US 163 and continue north to Bluff, an emerging tourist destination with a couple of motels and resorts, and then another 26 miles to Blanding, a larger town with a grocery store, gas stations and motels.
• Valley of the Gods is another option. Right before pavement ends and the Moki Dugway starts, look for a dirt road and sign to the right. In dry weather, Valley of the Gods is an easily navigable route skirting the base of Cedar Mesa for 17 miles before reaching US 163. From this point, it’s 45 minutes to Blanding. Referred to as a mini–Monument Valley, Valley of the Gods is classic southwest with massive rock formations named Battleship Rock, Setting Hen, Rooster Butte and Buddha in the Bathtub. This is BLM country so it’s open for camping, biking, hiking and backpacking.

Back above the Moki Dugway, UT 261 continues north across Cedar Mesa before intersecting UT 95 and Bears Ears National Monument. Here, Trail of the Ancients merges with the Bicentennial Highway so check the article above for info on Natural Bridges National Monument, House on Fire, Cave Tower Site and Edge of the Cedars State Park.

From Blanding, go south on US 191 15 miles and then take a left onto UT 262 east. Follow the signs to Hovenweep Road, Cajon Mesa Road and Reservation Road before arriving at the entrance to Hovenweep National Monument, 31 miles from US 191. Sounds confusing but it works; however, be wary of GPS. It’s best to save directions to your phone before heading out. Everything about Hovenweep is satisfying: its beautiful name, remoteness and peaceful canyon-side location. A moderate two-mile loop trail leads past the stoic Square Tower ruins and down to the canyon floor before returning to the park’s visitor center. Square Tower is one of six prehistoric villages that make up this sprawling monument. Once home to more than 2,500 people, Hovenweep’s communities were built between CE 1200 and 1300. Located 10 miles south, Cajon is my other favorite ruin. Ask at the visitor center for directions and conditions.

Next to Hovenweep lies Colorado’s equally amazing Canyons of the Ancients National Monument. From Hovenweep’s visitor center, it’s 42 miles on country roads to Dolores, Colorado and the exhibits at Canyons of the Ancients Visitor Center & Museum. Today, hiking, hunting, ranching and energy development are important. Driving through scrubland and past farms, it’s humbling to realize that humans have been active here for at least 10,000 years. This region contains the highest known archaeological site density in the United States; it’s estimated up to 30,000 historical locations exist. 8,300 are recorded and include villages, granaries, reservoirs, great kivas, cliff dwellings, shrines, sacred springs, agricultural fields, petroglyphs and sweat lodges. But time, weather, erosion and human destruction haven’t been kind. Most sites are rubble or lie covered under soil and vegetation. Still, excavation continues, and Painted Hand Pueblo and Lowry Pueblo are must-sees. The Escalante Pueblo is the easiest to reach; it’s located on a hill behind the Canyons of the Ancients Visitor Center & Museum.

The last stop on this road trip is the most famous. From Dolores, it’s another 20 minutes to Mesa Verde National Park, where the scenic drives, hiking trails, campgrounds and petroglyphs live up to the hype. Mesa Verde contains some of the world’s best preserved cliff dwellings and should not be missed. But you’ll need to make reservations to tour some of them so plan ahead.

Trail of the Ancients picks up in the Land of Enchantment with Aztec Ruins National Monument, Salmon Ruins and the incomparable Chaco Culture National Historical Park. Look for this entry in our upcoming New Mexico section.

Researched and written by Greg Phillips. Original itinerary created for RVshare and then adjusted to include all travelers.