There are many superlatives to describe the Mississippi River. It’s one of Earth’s largest river systems in size and habitat diversity. In North America, it’s a major migration route for birds and fish. And it’s one of the world's most important commercial waterways. Unlike more isolated, less developed major rivers around the globe, roads generally parallel the entire 2,552 miles of the Mississippi. Called the Great River Road, you can follow the river’s length from its Minnesota headwaters to the Louisiana delta.
Iowa’s section of the Great River Road is one of the best, blending Native American history and high bluff overlooks with aquariums, a cave tour, nature preserves and a beloved baseball field.
By the time the Mississippi River reaches the Hawkeye State, it’s already meandered several hundred miles through Minnesota. Starting in the far northeast corner of Iowa, State Highway 26 enters New Albin. Minneapolis, the closest major city, is 180 miles northwest. Des Moines lies 240 miles southwest. A mix of county, state and US highways make up the route. Road numbers change as you drive south along the river so always keep watch for the familiar Great River Road sign.
From New Albin, it’s 11 miles to the next small town, Lansing, which has a bridge crossing to Wisconsin. This part of Iowa is especially picturesque with hills, river valleys and limestone bluffs covered in hardwood forest, meaning summer shades of green and magnificent fall colors. You’re also now driving through the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge. The Driftless Area Education and Visitor Center has interpretive exhibits and information on recreational activities such as hiking, canoeing, kayaking, fishing and hunting.
From Lansing, it’s 24 miles south to Effigy Mounds National Monument. Humans have lived in the region for more than 10,000 years and the monument has 206 prehistoric mounds, from 850 to 2,500 years old. Their origin and purpose are unknown although the oldest, conical-shaped mounds were used for burials. Some 1,400 years ago, mounds in the form of bears and birds were created. The monument is an important Native American site with forest hiking trails and high bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River. However, the animal shapes can be hard to make out when standing so close. They were likely visible from far away, particularly when trees were removed. Be sure to stop at the visitor center for exhibits and information.
A few minutes south lies one of the many attractive towns along the river. Founded in the mid-1800s, McGregor’s brick buildings house restaurants and shops selling gifts, antiques, books, clothes and ice cream. Across the river is the much larger Prairie Du Chien, Wisconsin with fast food, big box stores and several campgrounds.
The camping spot with the best views is Pikes Peak State Park, just south of McGregor. With 11 miles of trails, the park offers a variety of hiking terrain. Easy walks lead to Bridal Veil Falls and bluff overlooks with sweeping views of the confluence of the Mississippi and Wisconsin rivers. At 1,130 feet, the park has the highest bluff along the Mississippi and like Colorado’s Pikes Peak, is also named after Zebulon Pike, the explorer and U.S. brigadier general.
From Pikes Peak State Park, it’s 18 miles to Guttenberg, another interesting riverside town and a good place to see the inner workings of the Mississippi. There are 29 dams on the Upper Mississippi River that create pools deep enough for large towboats to navigate. The dams have locks which raise and lower vessels between levels. In operation since 1937, Lock & Dam Number 10 is in Guttenberg, with a viewing platform where you can watch ships and boats move through the locks. The nearby Lockmaster House Heritage Museum is the last remaining lockmaster house on the Upper Mississippi River featuring artifacts, antiques, photos and other memorabilia. The Guttenberg Fish Hatchery also deserves a quick visit. Located downtown, it raises northern pike fry for the Iowa Department of Natural Resources and has an aquarium with local fish species and exhibits.
The granddaddy of Mississippi aquariums is farther down the river some 40 miles. Chartered in 1837, Dubuque is Iowa’s oldest city and one of the first European settlements west of the Mississippi River. Today, this comfortable, enticing midsize city features restored brick buildings, colorful murals, breweries, art galleries and a strong theater and music scene. The first-rate National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium has numerous indoor and outdoor displays on a large campus. Native American history, river heritage, the National Rivers Hall of Fame, dugout canoes, river otters and a slew of wildlife and nature exhibits make it a top draw.
Another major attraction in the area is a 52-mile roundtrip detour west of Dubuque. The Field of Dreams Movie Site in Dyersville is where many scenes from the beloved 1989 baseball classic were filmed. You can run the bases, play a pickup game, tour the Kinsella farmhouse and walk out of rows of corn, just like the ghosts of baseball legends. And if you’re tired of camping, consider the “Kinsella Experience” where you spend the night in the three-bedroom home.
Back in Dubuque, the Great River Road continues south four miles to Mines of Spain, a large recreation area of woods and prairies that also houses the E.B. Lyons Interpretive and Nature Center. Although there’s no camping, other activities include canoeing, kayaking, picnicking, hunting, hiking and spectacular photography of the Mississippi River, downtown Dubuque and Illinois from bluff overlooks.
From high above, it’s a couple of miles to an underground adventure, Crystal Lake Cave. Discovered in 1868, the cavern opened to the public in 1932. Today, guides lead small groups through the cave’s well-lit passages on a ¾-mile long tour.
From Crystal Lake Cave, the Great River Road follows US 52 south. In eight miles, look for the photogenic Saint Donatus Church on the left as you pass through the town of the same name. The church looks even more impressive from a distance, framed by farmland and forest as you climb the hills to the south. From Saint Donatus, it’s 10 miles to Bellevue, another attractive, historic riverside town. Just south is Bellevue State Park with more impressive river views, hiking trails, camping and a nature center and butterfly sanctuary.
From Bellevue, stay on US 52 until it reaches US 67 and continue south to Clinton, a large town with all the necessities. Bellevue to Clinton is 37 miles and then drive another 23 miles to LeClaire where the Buffalo Bill Museum is worth a peek. The iconic frontiersman, US Army scout and showman was born in LeClaire in 1846. William F. Cody was an expert marksman, earning his nickname while hunting buffalo, aka American bison. In the late 1800s, Buffalo Bill’s Wild West show began touring the United States and Europe and is largely credited with creating many of the early stereotypes of the American West.
Leaving LeClaire, the Great River Road intersects busy I-80 before continuing south into Bettendorf and then Davenport, two of the four Quad Cities. The others, Moline and Rockford, are located across the river in Illinois. After passing through downtown Davenport, the Great River Road follows IA 22 south to the next highlight. The Nahant Marsh is a 382-acre preserve next to the Mississippi River. There’s an education center and trails through the wetlands. Birding is popular as well as photographing the hundreds of blooming summertime water lilies.
From Nahant Marsh, it’s 15 miles to Wildcat Den State Park, another beautiful place to hike and camp. Many visitors come to see the Pine Creek Grist Mill, the oldest working grist mill between the Mississippi River and Rocky Mountains. While Wildcat Den showcases forest and sandstone bluffs, drive five miles farther to Fairport State Recreation Area which offers camping and recreational activities next to the Mississippi River.
From Fairport, follow the river seven more miles to Muscatine. In the late 1800s, the Mississippi was the ideal habitat for huge clam beds, creating the world’s largest pearl button industry. Overfishing and the development of plastic buttons eventually ended Iowa’s pearl button business. Today, Muscatine is a pretty riverside town with restaurants and shops. To learn more about the clams and button industry, visit the informative, elegant National Pearl Button Museum.
Next, the Great River Road travels 24 miles to the Toolesboro Indian Mounds National Historic Landmark. Iowa’s Hopewell culture flourished for five hundred years, from about 200 BCE to 300 CE. This site preserves several large burial mounds and includes a small museum and prairie demonstration plot.
From the mounds, it’s 27 miles to Burlington, a large town with a peculiar attraction. While San Francisco has Lombard Street, many in Burlington consider Snake Alley to be the world’s crookedest street. Guinness World Records gives Lombard Street the nod but you should still check out Snake Alley. Built in 1894, it’s probably safer to walk up and down than drive an RV! Nearby, the Heritage Center Museum is housed in a restored library built in 1898. Highlights include Native American relics, immigrant stories and artifacts plus a first-rate fossil collection of ancient marine animals called crinoids.
From Burlington, historical interpretation continues 19 miles down the Great River Road at Old Fort Madison. This living history museum is a captivating replica of the original, erected in 1808 as the first American military fort in the upper Mississippi region. Old Fort Madison was a major trading post. Guides in period uniform and costume demonstrate trade, clothing, equipment and weaponry.
The town of Fort Madison has well-preserved historic storefronts from the late 1800s. It also lays claim to the world’s largest and Mississippi River’s only remaining double swing-span bridge with an upper level for cars and a lower part for trains.
Another 25 miles and the Great River Road reaches its final Iowa town, Keokuk. Look for the George M. Verity Riverboat Museum on the riverfront. In 1927, the US government built the paddle boat upstream in Dubuque to revive river transportation and move barges from St. Louis, Missouri to St. Paul, Minnesota. In 1961, the George M. Verity was retired from service and donated to Keokuk. From here, the Great River Road crosses into Missouri, where we’ll continue the journey soon.