This byway is one of our choices for South Dakota’s Top Scenic Byways, as listed in our South Dakota section.
The Black Hills are an alpine oasis surrounded by the Great Plains. There’s nothing like them in the Midwest. Formed by volcanic activity some 1.6 billion years ago, the Black Hills rise impressively to heights of 7,242 feet. In fact, Black Elk Peak is the highest mountain between the Rockies and Pyrenees in France. Located mostly in southwestern South Dakota, the Black Hills are about 110 miles long and 70 miles wide, encompassing an area larger than Massachusetts. Covered by forests with numerous waterfalls and lakes, the Black Hills are also known for their granite formations, particularly the one sculpted by Gutzon Borglum showcasing the four presidents. While Mount Rushmore and the scenic roads southwest of Rapid City get most of the attention and visitors, this story breaks down the sites farther west that run through the heart of the Black Hills. Cooler temperatures and fall leaves make this area a great autumn destination, particularly when driving through Spearfish Canyon.
Jewel Cave north to Spearfish only
102 miles / 164 km
Jewel Cave north to Spearfish plus Vore Buffalo Jump, Sturgis and Rapid City
187 miles / 301 km
Starting about 55 miles southwest of Rapid City, guided tours explore Jewel Cave National Monument, the world’s fifth longest known cave. More than 215 miles have been mapped and surveyed and in the U.S., only Mammoth Cave in Kentucky is bigger; in fact, it’s the world’s largest cave. That said, South Dakota also has nearby Wind Cave which ranks third in the U.S. and seventh in the world. At Jewel Cave, you’ll need a ticket to tour and be sure to make reservations, particularly in the summer. The park also offers hiking trails and picnicking but no camping.
From Jewel Cave, take US 16 east to Custer. In 1874, gold was discovered nearby, launching the Black Hills mining boom. Today, the small town has motels, campgrounds, restaurants and a brewery. Then, heading north on US 385 it’s seven miles to Crazy Horse Memorial. While the better-known Mount Rushmore is 17 miles away, Crazy Horse is the “world's largest mountain carving in progress.” The vision of sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski, it’s been under construction since 1948 and isn’t close to being finished. Even so, the profile of Crazy Horse, the famed leader of the Oglala Lakota, can be seen clearly and the memorial also features three museums, an orientation film and views of the colossal granite sculpture from a veranda.
From Crazy Horse, go 12 miles north on US 385 to Hill City where you can board the Black Hills Central Railroad for a 20-mile steam-powered ride to Keystone and back. The “1880 Train” operates mid-May through mid-October with a Holiday Express from Thanksgiving to Christmas.
For the next 42 miles on its way to Deadwood, US 385 rolls north through forest, passing wineries, cabins, motels, campgrounds and two of the most picturesque lakes in the Black Hills. From Hill City, it’s 5.5 miles to 375-acre Sheridan Lake, featuring the largest campground in Black Hills National Forest. There’s a boat launch, swimming beach, picnic area and trailheads. Trout, northern pike, perch and bass are fished in the waters. Ten miles farther north on US 385 is 800-acre Pactola Reservoir, offering most of the same amenities as Sheridan Lake. Both complexes are very popular so keep that in mind as you plan.
From Pactola it’s 28 miles north to Deadwood, perhaps the most famous town in South Dakota. While gold was first discovered further south in Custer, Deadwood is where the rush really took off. So much so that in 1877 the U.S. government seized the Black Hills from the Sioux, violating an 1868 treaty. Booms, busts and fires have given this town a colorful history, along with legends such as Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane. HBO had a popular TV series set in Deadwood. The Old West theme lives on in the restored downtown. In 1989 limited-wage gambling was legalized and today, there are casinos along with resort hotels, restaurants and galleries. A mile out of town is the Broken Boot Gold Mine which gives 30-minute tours every 30 minutes from Memorial Day through Labor Day.
Deadwood sits in a gulch and as you head three miles west to Lead (pronounced “leed”), the highway climbs steeply to this little town perched on a hill. Mining was also once the backbone of Lead’s economy, and until its closing in 2002, the Homestake Gold Mine was the deepest and most productive gold mine in the Western Hemisphere. Today, it operates as an underground scientific research facility. Up top, the fee-free Sanford Lab Homestake Visitor Center has exhibits and an observation deck for viewing the massive opencut. The nearby Black Hills Mining Museum displays relics and memorabilia as well as a life-size mine replica.
From Lead, go west on US 14A to Spearfish. This 28-mile route follows the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway, one of the prettiest roads in the Black Hills, not to mention all of South Dakota. The highway heads south before curving north around 7,064-foot Terry Peak, with seasonal skiing at the highest resort between the Rocky Mountains and French Alps. 13 miles from Lead the byway reaches Spearfish Canyon Nature Area with several hiking trails, waterfalls and campgrounds. Spearfish Canyon is characterized by thick vegetation and 1,000-foot walls, carved by Spearfish Creek. Fishing, birding, rock climbing, wildlife viewing, picnicking and fall leaf peeping are prime activities. In the winter, South Dakota can get very cold and snowy, causing waterfalls to freeze into artistic masterpieces. Little Spearfish Falls and Roughlock Falls are usually two of the most stunning natural ice sculptures.
US 14A eventually winds into Spearfish. Incorporated in 1888, the town and region’s history is told through exhibits at the High Plains Western Heritage Center. The 49-acre museum focuses on topics including Native Americans, pioneering, cattle and sheep ranching, rodeo, transportation and mining. Outdoors you can explore a furnished one-room schoolhouse, homestead log cabin and antique farm and ranch equipment. The D.C. Booth National Historic Fish Hatchery is one of America’s oldest operating hatcheries with trout viewing, a museum, replica fish-transporting railcar and nature trails. Downtown offers antiques, outdoor sporting goods, coffee shops, wine bars and the restored Matthews Opera House and Art Gallery.
The byway ends in Spearfish but the journey continues 18 miles west and into Wyoming on I-90. The Vore Buffalo Jump is an important archaeological site where Late-Prehistoric Plains Indians herded bison and drove them over a cliff. Below, tribe members waited to finish the kills and butcher the animals. Today, excavation continues which offers guided tours from June through Labor Day.
From Spearfish heading southeast on I-90, it’s 20 miles to Sturgis, site of the huge annual ten-day motorcycle rally. Another 28 miles and you’re in Rapid City, the state’s attractive second largest city and popular summertime destination with numerous hotels, campgrounds and restaurants.
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